DAY 37 - FLORENCE to BIVIGLIANO - 27 May 2026

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It was hard to tear ourselves away from Florence after two days rest but today had many compensations.

We had a late start after breakfast and finding an ATM to withdraw cash and a post box for our postcards. The crowds were already forming and there were long queues to see David at the Accademia.

Today we started the Via degli Dei, named for the Roman gods associated with the mountains it crosses. We didn't see many signs we were on it as we exited Florence through the streets. We followed our directions, which involved switchbacks and climbing along quiet walled roads, until we came to an overgrown path. Although it looked dubious, a bit further on we found our first signpost, labelled Via degli Dei.

We stayed on the road for a while then followed directions from a worker to get to a narrow walled footpath. It was a little wild and we were glad to find the road again. This led us around the walls and into Fiesole, where we saw our first groups of walkers, identifiable by their backpacks and walking poles. We are completing the Via degli Dei the opposite way to most walkers, so we are able to greet many of them.

Before we headed off again, we visited the archaeological area, which included a Roman theatre, baths and temple. It was very peaceful there, especially after the bustle of Florence.

The Via led us out uphill on asphalt. It was quite a hot day, but we'd had a piadina and refilled our bottles from the water fountain in the square. Just when we were wondering what we'd signed up for, we were directed off the path onto a gravel track.

For the rest of the day we trod a variety of paths, but only asphalt again right at the end. We had a number of conversations in basic Italian and English with walkers coming the other way, sharing details about the path, where we'd come from and where we were going. We passed 28 walkers between Fiesole and Bivigliano. At one stage we passed a small cairn, like you'd see on a pilgrim path, but this had a Buddha instead of a cross.

After lots of uphill we enjoyed the downhill, especially as a lot of it was shady. We sat on some tree root steps for a short break. An especially lovely part was crossing a large grassy meadow. We left the Via to take a path to our accommodation, where in due course we enjoyed a delicious meal and good rest.

Weaving through the queue for the Accademia on our way out of Florence
The way to Fiesole
Leaving the road for an inviting path
An inviting path
About to emerge from the inviting path
There were long views back towards Florence as we entered Fiesole 
Statue in Fiesole representing the meeting of Garibaldi with Victor Emmanuel II
We spent some time among the Roman and Etruscan ruins in Fiesole
Fiesole highlights
Another Fiesole highlight - buying piadinas for lunch
Back on the Via Degli Dei, which followed an asphalt road for a few kilometres out of Fiesole
Lovely views through the cypresses
A friendly greeting on the path
The Via Degli Dei towards Bivigliano 
A rocky section of the Via Degli Dei 
Ridgeline on the Via Degli Dei 
Through tall grass on the Via Degli Dei 
Tree root rest stop
Pointing out the walking path sign
View from the path as we approached Bivigliano 
Bits and pieces 
Flowers, with bonus butterfly
Birds
Day 37 - Map
Day:                               37
Distance:                      25.18 km
Walking time:               5 hrs 46 mins
Elevation gain:             1034 metres
Cumulative distance:  688.15 km

Comments

  1. Anonymous28 May 2026 at 12:10

    Today’s birds: Hooded Crow, Common Redstart

    Was there a story behind the koala?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Barkers28 May 2026 at 19:13

    Probably, but they didn't have an explanation attached, so we'll never know!

    ReplyDelete

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