DAY 39 - BARBERINO DI MUGELLO to MADONNA DEI FORNELLI - 29 May 2026



We left early and quickly joined the walking path (number 352) to take us back up to the Via degli Dei. Although this path showed signs of recent maintenance - bushes trimmed back for a short section, freshly painted red and white markings - navigation was challenging at times. It was also made more difficult by farmers labelling their roads 'private', even when a walking path was marked in red and white. We did have some great views back, including of the lake, and plenty of flowery fields. 

Unexpectedly a historic osteria was open when our path briefly turned onto the road and the signora made us coffee. Caffeinated, we rejoined the path, again experiencing some navigational challenges and overgrown paths. Our reward came towards the top, when we came across signposted sections of the Via Flaminia Militare, the Roman road that ran between Bologna and Arezzo. 

When we finally arrived at the Futa Pass, we had a look around the German war memorial cemetery, the largest in Italy. We then had lunch at the restaurant, before starting the next section of the walk, on the Via degli Dei.

Today we counted 63 walkers, from the time we joined at the Passi della Futa until we reached the village where we are staying. Comparatively the trail was easier than our morning walk, well-marked and maintained. It went through forest on dirt tracks, which were sometimes muddy. We rang a bell at the Banditacce, at 1206m the highest point on the Via Degli Dei.

Eventually it came out at fields, before plunging into the forest again. It continued like this until we finally arrived at Madonna dei Fornelli. The restaurants were fully booked with fellow walkers but we enjoyed some great pizza.

Leaving Barberino behind as we started the day's climbing
We passed through an agricultural area
We were to follow these signs to the Passo della Futa for quite some time
Onwards on walking path 352 to the Passo della Futa
The signage was generally very clear
Although on occasion the actual path wasn't obvious 
Coffee stop at the Antica Osteria in Montecarelli
This no entry sign was clearly not meant for long-distance walkers
Towards the Passo della Futa on walking path 352
The path became clearer as we neared the pass
Several sections of the Via Flaminia Militare, an old Roman road
The largest German WWII military cemetery in Italy, at the Passo della Futa 
The somewhat historic restaurant at the Passo della Futa 
As well as the 63 walkers we passed going the other way, we found this couple going the same direction as us.
Skirting some possible Roman road remains
Ringing the bell at the Banditacce
Downhill through the forest
Through a meadow on the Via Degli Dei 
We haven't seen many cows in Italy so far, so we were happy to spot these ones today
Pathside sign marking the border between Tuscany and Emilia  Romagna 
An old Roman quarry 
A lot of climbing today - more than 1400m of elevation gain
A fairly flat section before the drop down to Madonna dei Fornelli 
Pizza
After dinner, back to our b and b as the sun was going down
Bits and pieces 
Flowers
Birds
Day 39 - Map

Day:                               39
Distance:                      33.79 km
Walking time:               7 hrs 57 mins
Elevation gain:             1444 metres
Cumulative distance:  744.57 km

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