DAY 51 - BERCETO to PONTREMOLI - 10 June 2026

Although the forecast was for no rain, it did look a little threatening as we headed out this morning. We quickly found the Via Francigena and headed uphill.  We saw evidence on the path of the wild horses and found them near the top. Monte Valoria, the highest point for us on the VF, was scenic but cold and windy, so we didn't linger. Crossing the ridge was very exposed and we were glad to drop into the forest.

Entering the hamlet of the Cisa Pass we were fantasising about hot soup, hot chocolate and salad rolls to take on...but they were closed on Wednesday, as was the little alimentari across the road. We ate our bananas then headed uphill, through the arch into Tuscany... then beat a hasty retreat as the wind caught us again.

We walked down the road, which is also a wet weather option.  Once the wind had dropped we rejoined the Via, crossing another ridge to sit on the Big Bench, a community project.

From there it was a steep downhill on loose shale and rocks. We were very glad to sit on a bench at Groppoli and eat some biscuits for lunch (they had healthy fruit in them). We filled up our water bottles from a fountain and continued through olive groves and vineyards to the suspension bridge.

After that we enjoyed passing through small hamlets and had another few crossings on historic bridges before heading steeply uphill.  We crested the top and found lots of empty benches. A counting of the stations of the cross on the way down kept us amused for a while.

Entering into Pontremoli we were at last able to collect our credentials,  and have begun filling them with stamps already. 

Heading out of Berceto towards a threatening sky

Up towards Monte Valoria

Monte Valoria

Monte Valoria

Starting the descent to the Cisa Pass

Hold on to your hat!

The descent was fairly quick

The bar on the left and the alimentari on the right were both closed

The Tuscan Gate - entry to Tuscany. We stepped through, then decided the wind was too strong .  . .

So we briefly re-entered Emilia Romagna

There were a few easy kilometres of road-walking

Before we rejoined the Via Francigena for the final 17km into Pontremoli 

This section was on the grass

A sweeping downhill

Walking along a ridge

We found a bench to sit on

Before continuing the descent

Example of the road surface

We passed several small hamlets

And had a rest in one

This poster explains the highlights of this stage of the Via Francigena 

A bit of uphill on the way down

A few bridge crossings on today's walk

Approaching Pontremoli on the Via Francigena

olives 

Casalina

Negotiating the cobblestones as we approached Pontremoli 

Arzengio

Pontremoli 

Bits and pieces 

Bird,  and a few other animals that crossed our path today

Day 51 - Map

Day:                               51

Distance:                      30.41 km

Walking time:               7 hrs 22 mins

Elevation gain:             1114 metres

Cumulative distance:  1039.17 km