DAY 53 - FILETTO to AULLA - 12 June 2026

After a quick supermarket trip to the nearby town of Villafranca, we checked out of our accommodation and went for first breakfast at the bar downstairs. The staff were surprised to see us, saying that most pilgrims were gone by 6:30. They loved our explanation that we were lazy pilgrims, and agreed that there was no need to get out of bed too early when we were only walking to Aulla, a distance of about 16km. They made us a great breakfast of cappuccino, croissants and juice.

While we were still getting up, another pilgrim walked in, asking directions of two local men on how to get to Aulla. This caused a spirited discussion amongst them. We didn't see the pilgrim again, hopefully he got to Aulla.

After a brief walk around the village, we left Filetto, following the clearly marked Via Francigena signage through the arched gate. We followed the town wall around and quickly found ourselves on a shady track. We crossed a bridge and walked through farming land, having a little chat with a donkey. Soon we were climbing up stone stairs to the medieval centre of Virgoletta. We had our second breakfast of healthy fruit and dairy (no really - check the photo) in a little flowery piazza overlooking the valley.

The old town of Virgoletta was just one long walled street, amazingly tidy with tall storied stone houses on either side. It was very quiet, but we saw a few locals going about their business.

Descending, we admired the old washhouse and fountains. Some people were filling up crates of bottles with the water, so it must be good! We spent a little time searching for the mysterious Castrum Romano di Virgoletta (following a signpost), but gave up when the path became overgrown.

From there it was pleasant trails through forest or farm land, just about all the way to Aulla. We could see where work had been done clearing the trail. It was still muddy and wet in places, even though it hadn't rained for a while.

We crossed one last bridge and stopped at the first cafe for a late lunch. It was then just a short walk to our accommodation for the night. 

Returning to Filetto from the supermarket in nearby Villafranca 

First breakfast in Filetto

Wandering the medieval streets of Filetto

Leaving Filetto by the Porta Nord

Around the walls of Filetto

Forested path outside Filetto

The first water crossing of the day

Chatting with one of the locals on the way

A bit of a climb to enter the medieval village of Virgoletta

Still climbing

Virgoletta 

Some cute red vehicles in Virgoletta 

Leaving Virgoletta

Communal washhouse outside Virgoletta 

Searching (in vain) for the Castrum Romano di Virgoletta

Another water crossing

Via Francigena towards Aulla

Emerging from the forest for a bit

There's a picnic table out there somewhere

Signs of recent path-clearing activity

A passing Australian long-distance walker helping to clear the path

Deformities in the path called for slight detours at times

In places the path looked like an ancient road

Another water crossing

Via Francigena sign directing us onto a narrow forest trail

A succession of posts with the traditional red and white signs marking the way

Photographer in action

Approaching Aulla

Lunch (wholemeal focaccia) at a bar in Terrarossa 

Entering Aulla

Bits and pieces 

Birds

Day 53 - Map 

Day:                               53

Distance:                      15.82 km

Walking time:               3 hrs 43 mins

Elevation gain:             328 metres

Cumulative distance:  1073.79 km