DAY 54 - AULLA to SARZANA - 13 June 2026

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Today we had a relatively short walk but there were lots of distractions along the way. Our backpacks were a bit heavier than usual, because our accommodation had given us enough breakfast to make lunch as well - and we had already bought supplies the day before, including a kilogram of cherries...

The first distraction was the restored medieval Abbey of San Caprasio. Aulla had been heavily bombed in WWII so most of its buildings are modern. The Abbey had a small museum which showed traditional pilgrim attire and the money they spent as well as a replica of the bomb that fell into the Abbey ruins but did not detonate.

We headed out through the Saturday markets, past the book stall, across the bridge and up into grassed paths. These led us to the foot of Bibola. We were tempted to visit as panoramic views and a stamp for our Via Francigena credentials were promised, but we pushed on. A sign reminded us to look back and we had scenic views of the hilltop town for quite a while. Looking forward we had views of the jagged mountains we saw yesterday, but closer...

Walking a bit further, we came to Vecchietto, with its narrow stone streets and arches. We sat on the shaded steps of the fountain to eat our morning tea.

The next part of the walk was a single track along the side of the mountain, with plenty of up and down. Eventually we descended via a dirt road then rocky path, picking up our first views of the Ligurian Sea. How exciting!

We had decided to eat our lunch in the old town of Ponzano Superiore, but it was tricky to find a way in. There wasn't a main street or many named streets at all. We followed two young women who stopped and told us of a viewpoint where we could sit. Later we learnt that Ponzano Superiore was a hideout for partisans in WWII - the Nazis would have had little hope of catching them there.

After that it was a slither downhill on rocky paths to La Brina, the ruined castle, then a further slither to the canal. We had a chat with a pair of Swiss cyclists, who were riding the Via Francigena cycleway. We finished our walk mostly following the Via Francigena along the canal, an easy way to get to Sarzana.

After a rest, we had dinner in a fish restaurant and a wander around the streets. There is a wine festival going on and Sarzana is very lively this evening. 

Interesting items at the Abbey of San Caprasio 
Leading Aulla
Getting into our stride
We had a bit of climbing today. There's usually a bit of climbing. 
First view of the hilltop town of Bibola
Looking back on Bibola 
We had more of those wonderful mountain views today
Expansive views from the Via Francigena 
Morning tea in Vecchietto 
The Via Francigena between Vecchietto and Ponzano 
First view of Ponzano, with the Ligurian Sea visible in the distance
Approaching Ponzano on the Via Francigena 
Ponzano 
Leaving Ponzano 
The surface was a bit rocky for a while
Checking the shoes for stones or grass seeds
The ruined  Castello della Brina
Joining a canal for the entry into Sarzana 
A bit of canal-walking
A bit more canal-walking
The fortress at Sarzana
Football in the fortress moat 
Dinner - as we are quite close to the sea,  fish is on the menu. Not sure how to explain the tiramisu. 
Sarzana
Birds
Bits and pieces 
Day 54 - Map
Day:                               54
Distance:                      21.99 km
Walking time:               5 hrs 09 mins
Elevation gain:             678 metres
Cumulative distance:  1095.78 km

Comments

  1. Anonymous14 June 2026 at 01:04

    Normal service resumed (we’ve been to Shepparton to view the Degas to Picasso exhibition). I’ll catch up with your last few days over the next little while.
    Today’s birds: Common Blackbird, Yellow-legged Gull

    ReplyDelete
  2. Barkers14 June 2026 at 05:54

    Thanks Murray. Hope you enjoyed the exhibition!

    ReplyDelete

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