DAY 55 - SARZANA to MASSA - 14 June 2026

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After a delicious pasticceria breakfast, we headed steeply uphill on the Via Francigena. Over the hill, we saw many cyclists and joggers out enjoying their Sunday morning, even a horse rider. The path took us along side a canal, then through farm land to Luni, one of the most important archaeological sites in Italy.

Luni was a major Roman port, becoming powerful because of its quality marble, olive oil and wine. It was eventually abandoned when the port silted up and largely forgotten. Today it has a well-organised museum and extensive area with remains of the forum, temple and theatre. 

After Luni we walked through built up areas, briefly stopping in a supermarket and then park for a sandwich lunch. 

We had been noticing the white marble mountains of Carrara for quite some time and now started seeing it in the streets - marble steps, marble statues, marble benches, even marble gutters.

At the only nearby railway crossing the barriers were down and we hoped it wasn't permanent. A man reassured us that a train was coming then crossed anyway, pushing his bike under the barriers. A train did come but the barriers didn't lift. Some more cyclists came and a couple of cars. After a good ten minutes another train passed and the barriers were lifted. 

We left the suburbs and started climbing up forested paths. At the top we were rewarded with stunning views: over the coast, back over the marble quarries and eventually over the other side of the hills. The steep slopes were covered with vineyards and some olives. We greeted cyclists coming in either direction. We descended into Massa, crossed the bridge and found our accommodation. 

Tonight we treated ourselves to an aperitivo in Piazza Mercurio then dinner under the porticoes. 

Leaving Sarzana
A bit of a climb to start the day's walk
We were soon into our stride
Striding out on the Via Francigena 
We followed this canal along a well-used cycle path for a few kilometres
Before too long,  we arrived at the Luni archaeological site 
We spent some time in the archaeological museum there
The busts on display included several famous characters from the 1st Century - among those pictured above are Britannicus and two Agrippinas
Some of the displays in the archaeological museum in Luni
After the museum, we had a good wander through the site of the old town
Some views of Luni
Hay, Australian long-distance walker, and Luni amphitheatre
As we moved on from Luni we began to see the Carrara marble quarries in the distance
Photographing the Torre di Castruccio Castracane from a set of marble steps
Zooming in on the marble quarries of Carrara, a key source of building material for the local area
Marble path,  marble retaining wall,  marble slabs,  marble pavement, and marble frog fountain
Waiting patiently for the train
The Via Francigena sign directed us out of the coastal plain (and steeply uphill)
A bit of a climb
Before too long, the views opened up, and we began to see the sea
The scenic Via Francigena towards Massa
Wide-ranging views as we continued to climb
The views stayed with us as we followed the contours around the hills
Selfie above the Ligurian Sea 
Onwards to Massa
Approaching Massa
Terraced vineyards covered this hill from top to bottom
Descending towards Massa on the Via Francigena 
Massa
Bits and pieces 
A few more bits and pieces 
Birds
Sundry other animals
Day 55 - Map
Day:                               55
Distance:                      30.27 km
Walking time:               6 hrs 24 mins
Elevation gain:             389 metres
Cumulative distance:  1126.05 km

Comments

  1. Anonymous15 June 2026 at 23:30

    Today’s birds: Eurasian Moorhen, Common Raven, probably European Serin but lack of yellow colour is a bit confounding, Eurasian Moorhen, Mallard, Eurasian Collared Dove

    ReplyDelete
  2. Barkers16 June 2026 at 06:00

    You do so well to identify the birds without any context. Thanks Murray!

    ReplyDelete

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